Ghosts

No visit to Phnom Penh is complete without a visit to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. And for the uninitiated, a word of caution: Tuol Sleng is certainly no Disneyland. The museum (Former Khmer Rouge S-21 Prison) is made up of four nondescript school buildings. Each building was the actual site of unimaginable atrocities. The original tools/apparatus used by the Khmer Rouge regime to torture the prisoners are on display. So are the interrogation rooms and cells that housed these poor souls – their restless spirits still linger the desolate grounds… you could just feel their presence!

I planned to spend an hour at the museum, but ended up more than two hours there. And mind you, I am not a fan of gory movies or ghost stories. I am actually very faint hearted. The torture rooms and cells reeked of death, so I didn’t spend too much time in there. But at the gallery where thousands and thousands of mug shots of actual prisoners were on display, I couldn’t help but look at each and every one of them. While many looked afraid (and resigned to their fate), there were also many who smiled for the camera – obviously they were too innocent to know what was in store for them… and there were many children! My heart sank. How could they do such a thing? By taking away the children’s right to live as children! Their childhood robbed in broad daylight and their lives drowned in the mass graves at Choeung Ek.

For a tourist attraction, Tuol Sleng is unusually dead (pun unintended) silent. Visitors, even the noisy tourist-bus types, looked at the displays silently, almost all with a heavy heart and a perturbed look. Indeed, it’s hard to be unaffected by the sheer horror of the events that took place there. It’s that horrific!

As I left the museum, a middle-aged amputee approached me at the gate and asked for money. While I empathized with his predicament, I feel that one should not exploit the situation to gain something. And one should not exploit the many innocent children who need a roof over their heads, good education, healthcare and proper nutrition by promising them money in exchange for sex or slavery.

The ghosts of Tuol Sleng still haunt many in Cambodia today. And the legacy of Khmer Rouge continues to live on. While we can never erase the past, we can build a better and brighter future for Cambodian children… Do you care enough to help make this possible?

Old Bangkok

I shot these photos on Rattanakosin Island aka Old Bangkok City. The area is bursting with vibrant colours and intoxicating smells. All photos copyright © 2010 LimZhu Photography.

Rachamankha… The Rose of Chiang Mai

If Chiang Mai is the Rose of the North, then Rachamankha is the Rose of Chiang Mai. The boutique hotel is so fabulous (Angelina Jolie was a guest, so it has to be great) that I have stayed there twice!

A Relais & Chateux member, Rachamankha is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hotels in the world. Its stunning Lanna-style architecture has been featured in countless coffee table books and interior design magazines. Every part of the hotel has a unique Lanna decoration be it a lantern, porcelain vases, birdcage or wall hangings. You’d feel like you’re in an art gallery.

The rooms are spacious and comfortable with simple but elegant Lanna-style furniture. It has amenities similar to a 5-star hotel – a DVD player, a mini-bar, quality toiletries (including an insect repellant made of essential oils to keep the mozzies at bay) and turndown service.

There are plenty of spaces to chill out at – the pool, the main lounge and a study cum library where you can help yourself to free flow of cognac. Or you can grab a book and spend the morning or afternoon in one of the gardens where beautiful flowers are in bloom.

At night, the hotel is very tranquil and atmospheric – there is hardly any sound from outside traffic, just peace and quiet. Its customer service is efficient, professional, warm and friendly. And I must add the staff members are all very good looking.

Rachamankha has both style and substance, and truly deserves to be in Conde Nast Traveler’s Hot List for 2005.

The Sukhothai… Days of Splendor Gone By

In my last blog entry, I wrote that it is safe to travel to Thailand. In fact, now’s a great time to head to the Kingdom as virtually everything in Bangkok is on sale. Hotels have slashed their rates by up to 50 percent (some even offering free nights like Baan Pra Nond), while retailers are wooing back customers with massive discounts and freebies.

On my recent Bangkok trip, I extended one more night to stay at The Sukhothai which is running a “Welcome Back” promotion. The special rates include free mini-bar, WiFi, breakfast and limousine transfer to the airport. A steal I reckon!

The Sukhothai, one of the leading hotels in Thailand (if not the world), is designed by renowned architects, Edward Tuttle and Kerry Hill. Built in early 1990s, The Sukhothai’s architecture with its minimalist décor, mirrored bathrooms and zen gardens was considered cutting edge at the time. But now it looks a little dated and uninspiring. The management knows this for a fact and has started refurbishment to its superior rooms. When the hotel’s long overdue overhaul is completed, I'm sure guests will experience days of splendor at The Sukhothai again.

Return of Ratchaprasong

Today is the one month anniversary of the 19 May 2010 crackdown which saw the Thai military successfully recapturing Ratchaprasong, Bangkok’s commercial heart, from anti-government Red Shirt protesters.

I was in Bangkok recently to photograph the devastation that the Red Shirts have left behind in Ratchaprasong. Gone are Siam Theatre (an institution in Bangkok) and CentralWorld, South East Asia’s second largest shopping mall. Coincidentally, CentralWorld used to be called World Trade Centre before its billion-baht renovation in 2006. Like the World Trade Centre in New York, CentralWorld was also destroyed by “terrorists”.

All seemed calm and normal as I walked along the streets in Ratchaprasong, but I could sense that many Bangkokians remain guarded. My friends in Bangkok confirmed this when they told me that nobody dares talk about politics in public anymore. The taxi drivers (most of whom are Red) would used to curse and swear at Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva and his government during the turmoil, but now they just quietly drive their taxis.

According to CRES (Centre for the Resolution of Emergency Situation), there are about 90 dead and 1500 injured in the recent clashes. The Red Shirts are pointing their fingers at the government for causing the deaths, but the government blames it on the “men in black” militia. So who’s right and who’s wrong? One thing’s for sure – this is not a straightforward poor vs. elite class war as misleadingly reported by CNN and BBC, it’s much more complicated and one has to dig deep into Thailand’s culture and history to understand what’s really going on. From what I’ve read and heard, one man is unquestionably fomenting the Red Shirt movement and he doesn’t seem to be letting up…

With Thailand’s worst political crisis in modern history over (or is it?), is it safe to travel to the Land of Smiles? The answer is a resounding yes!

Amanfayun – The Bumpy Path to Luxury

Amanfayun in Hangzhou is Amanresorts’ newest baby. Since its opening in December 2009, it has received mixed reviews.

First the bouquets. Surrounded by lush greenery, creeks and mountains, Amanfayun is breathtaking. And it looks nothing like your typical resort or hotel. The rooms are housed in separate buildings (century-old farm houses), many with their own courtyard. The original structures are left intact, only the interiors are refurbished with mod cons. The sprawling property is like a beautiful set in a Zhang Yimou’s period movie. Spring is the best time to go when the flowers are in full bloom, adding splashes of color to the already picturesque landscape. In the day, you can hear birds singing their happy song. When night falls, it is so quiet you can hear a pin drop.

Now the brickbats. Because it is located in a public park, Fayun Pathway, its grounds are open to non-guests which mean tourists can walk about freely outside your room. Hate to say this, but it feels like a theme park. This has irked many paying guests, especially Amanjunkies who have come to expect total exclusivity and privacy from Amanresorts. I was lucky that my room is situated far away from the main pathway so I was spared from gawking tourists.

Amanfayun’s service compared to other Aman properties is not quite up to par. The security guards manning the public areas can be brusque at times, while the restaurant service can be slow and the food unexciting (and terribly expensive). I understand that teething problems are the norm for any new hotels, so I just closed one eye and happily took these pictures.