Rachamankha… The Rose of Chiang Mai

If Chiang Mai is the Rose of the North, then Rachamankha is the Rose of Chiang Mai. The boutique hotel is so fabulous (Angelina Jolie was a guest, so it has to be great) that I have stayed there twice!

A Relais & Chateux member, Rachamankha is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hotels in the world. Its stunning Lanna-style architecture has been featured in countless coffee table books and interior design magazines. Every part of the hotel has a unique Lanna decoration be it a lantern, porcelain vases, birdcage or wall hangings. You’d feel like you’re in an art gallery.

The rooms are spacious and comfortable with simple but elegant Lanna-style furniture. It has amenities similar to a 5-star hotel – a DVD player, a mini-bar, quality toiletries (including an insect repellant made of essential oils to keep the mozzies at bay) and turndown service.

There are plenty of spaces to chill out at – the pool, the main lounge and a study cum library where you can help yourself to free flow of cognac. Or you can grab a book and spend the morning or afternoon in one of the gardens where beautiful flowers are in bloom.

At night, the hotel is very tranquil and atmospheric – there is hardly any sound from outside traffic, just peace and quiet. Its customer service is efficient, professional, warm and friendly. And I must add the staff members are all very good looking.

Rachamankha has both style and substance, and truly deserves to be in Conde Nast Traveler’s Hot List for 2005.

The Sukhothai… Days of Splendor Gone By

In my last blog entry, I wrote that it is safe to travel to Thailand. In fact, now’s a great time to head to the Kingdom as virtually everything in Bangkok is on sale. Hotels have slashed their rates by up to 50 percent (some even offering free nights like Baan Pra Nond), while retailers are wooing back customers with massive discounts and freebies.

On my recent Bangkok trip, I extended one more night to stay at The Sukhothai which is running a “Welcome Back” promotion. The special rates include free mini-bar, WiFi, breakfast and limousine transfer to the airport. A steal I reckon!

The Sukhothai, one of the leading hotels in Thailand (if not the world), is designed by renowned architects, Edward Tuttle and Kerry Hill. Built in early 1990s, The Sukhothai’s architecture with its minimalist décor, mirrored bathrooms and zen gardens was considered cutting edge at the time. But now it looks a little dated and uninspiring. The management knows this for a fact and has started refurbishment to its superior rooms. When the hotel’s long overdue overhaul is completed, I'm sure guests will experience days of splendor at The Sukhothai again.

Amanfayun – The Bumpy Path to Luxury

Amanfayun in Hangzhou is Amanresorts’ newest baby. Since its opening in December 2009, it has received mixed reviews.

First the bouquets. Surrounded by lush greenery, creeks and mountains, Amanfayun is breathtaking. And it looks nothing like your typical resort or hotel. The rooms are housed in separate buildings (century-old farm houses), many with their own courtyard. The original structures are left intact, only the interiors are refurbished with mod cons. The sprawling property is like a beautiful set in a Zhang Yimou’s period movie. Spring is the best time to go when the flowers are in full bloom, adding splashes of color to the already picturesque landscape. In the day, you can hear birds singing their happy song. When night falls, it is so quiet you can hear a pin drop.

Now the brickbats. Because it is located in a public park, Fayun Pathway, its grounds are open to non-guests which mean tourists can walk about freely outside your room. Hate to say this, but it feels like a theme park. This has irked many paying guests, especially Amanjunkies who have come to expect total exclusivity and privacy from Amanresorts. I was lucky that my room is situated far away from the main pathway so I was spared from gawking tourists.

Amanfayun’s service compared to other Aman properties is not quite up to par. The security guards manning the public areas can be brusque at times, while the restaurant service can be slow and the food unexciting (and terribly expensive). I understand that teething problems are the norm for any new hotels, so I just closed one eye and happily took these pictures.

Bare to Basics

If you’re looking for a different holiday experience, where there’s adventure for adrenalin junkies and quiet time for introverts, Naked Retreats is it.

The eco-conscious and animal friendly retreat is located in 395 Village, Moganshan. Set amid unspoiled bamboo forest and alongside running streams are double-storey bungalows for family and friends and self-contained studios (two were converted from pig sty) for honeymooners or single travelers. While there are no concierge or butler services, ayis are on hand to tidy your room and cook delicious (and very large portion) meals.

The rooms are fairly basic, but cozy and comfortable. To be honest, I thought the retreat is a little rough around the edges (grubby shower curtains and dusty corners), but its stunning and serene surroundings more than make up for it.

Magnolia Bed & Breakfast… A Lovely Blossom in the French Concession

If you want to be in the heart of The French Concession, the place to stay is Magnolia Bed & Breakfast. Tucked away in a quiet little street just off busy HuaiHai Lu, the green-colored terrace house is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle. The nondescript exterior may not look appealing, but once you step inside it’s all chic and arty in an unpretentious way.

I stayed there for two nights in April and was given the only available (and the biggest) room in the house, Ink Water Suite, due to a last minute extension by one of the guests… who’s complaining? The generous suite has a balcony with great views, an open concept bathroom and a walk-in closet albeit tiny! It is also the only room with a LCD TV. The other four rooms on the lower floors have a queen-sized bed each, and although on the smallish side are quite adequate and comfy for single travelers.

Breakfast, a choice of Western or Chinese, is served in the living room on the ground floor. It is also here that you can surf the Internet or help yourself to a cup of coffee from the complimentary Nespresso machine. Or you can just chill in the adjoining library cum lounge with a good book. Or better yet, brush up on your Mandarin and have a chat with the friendly ayi over a bowl of steaming soya milk.

Magnolia is the brainchild of Miranda Yao and Norris Chen. The dynamic wife and husband duo also runs the renowned cooking studio, The Kitchen At. I checked it out one afternoon – it’s very impressive I must say. The students I met there could not stop raving about its cooking classes. Wait till they stay at Magnolia… they will definitely love it a whole bunch like I did!

Baan Pra Nond… Home Sweet Home

If you’re tired of soulless big chain hotels, maybe an intimate B&B is more your cup of tea?

Nestled among skyscrapers in busy Sathorn, lies the very charming Baan Pra Nond. Originally the residence of a Supreme Court judge, the 70 year old Thai Colonial house is lovingly brought back to life by Tasma and Jason Cotsmire. The B&B with its yellow and green walls, is tastefully decorated with original teak wood furniture and sepia-tinted family photos. Even the switches in the main building are old school.

I stayed at Baan Pra Nond (BPN) for the second time when I spent the Chinese New Year in Bangkok recently. Like the first time, I enjoyed every moment there especially chatting with the affable owners Tasma and Jason. While there are no concierge and turndown service, BPN offers a homey ambience and personalized service that you can’t find at tourist or business hotels.

Thanks to its very central location (five minutes’ walk to Surasak BTS), Baan Pra Nond is a welcome retreat for weary travelers who want to get away from the maddening crowd, but still want to be near to all the action. I’m sure Khun Tasma’s grandfather would be really proud of what his granddaughter has done to his place – home sweet home in the Kingdom’s frenetic metropolis.

The Bhuthorn… Sweet Dreams Are Made of These

At The Bhuthorn, B&B means Beautiful & Brilliant.

I knew I would love The Bhuthorn the moment I stepped into the century old shophouse. But I didn’t know I would fall head over heels for it! Restored to its former glory by Khun Direk and Khun Chitlada, architects turned hotelier, The Bhuthorn is a labor of love. From the vintage furniture and objet d'art to the fresh flowers (Direk arranges them himself) and quality toiletries (Chitlada handpicked the best Jasmine scented products which another legendary Bangkok hotel also uses), one can see that the owners put all their heart and soul into everything. The attention to detail and personalized service straight from the heart impeccable! In fact, the Bhuthorn feels more like a cozy and chic abode with all the creature comforts than your run of the mill B&B.

With only three rooms (each individually decorated and named after three Thai princes), a stay at The Bhuthorn is an unforgettable experience – you’re transported back to a bygone era. The B&B’s setting in a quaint heritage-listed part of old Bangkok is akin to a movie set. In the evening as I looked out the window into the moonlit square below, I could just picture a Thai Romeo and Juliet whispering sweet nothings to each other as they stroll along the quiet row of shophouses. It was like a beautiful dream which I wished would never end…

The next morning I awoke to a scrumptious traditional Thai breakfast (Chitlada makes a mean caffè latte by the way), followed by a yummy coconut ice cream from Nátthàphawn (the famous ice cream stall happens to be The Bhuthorn’s next door neighbor!) in the lovely and leafy courtyard. All too soon it was time to check out.

I knew I was going to miss The Bhuthorn when I stepped into the taxi and waved goodbye to Khun Chitlada. But what I didn’t know and only know now is that I miss it so badly to want to fly back to Bangkok and relive The Bhuthorn magic again and again. Khun Direk and Khun Chitlada have created a truly special place, one which every discerning traveler or architecture enthusiast who appreciates excellent design and heartfelt hospitality should not miss.