Old Bangkok

I shot these photos on Rattanakosin Island aka Old Bangkok City. The area is bursting with vibrant colours and intoxicating smells. All photos copyright © 2010 LimZhu Photography.

The Sukhothai… Days of Splendor Gone By

In my last blog entry, I wrote that it is safe to travel to Thailand. In fact, now’s a great time to head to the Kingdom as virtually everything in Bangkok is on sale. Hotels have slashed their rates by up to 50 percent (some even offering free nights like Baan Pra Nond), while retailers are wooing back customers with massive discounts and freebies.

On my recent Bangkok trip, I extended one more night to stay at The Sukhothai which is running a “Welcome Back” promotion. The special rates include free mini-bar, WiFi, breakfast and limousine transfer to the airport. A steal I reckon!

The Sukhothai, one of the leading hotels in Thailand (if not the world), is designed by renowned architects, Edward Tuttle and Kerry Hill. Built in early 1990s, The Sukhothai’s architecture with its minimalist décor, mirrored bathrooms and zen gardens was considered cutting edge at the time. But now it looks a little dated and uninspiring. The management knows this for a fact and has started refurbishment to its superior rooms. When the hotel’s long overdue overhaul is completed, I'm sure guests will experience days of splendor at The Sukhothai again.

Return of Ratchaprasong

Today is the one month anniversary of the 19 May 2010 crackdown which saw the Thai military successfully recapturing Ratchaprasong, Bangkok’s commercial heart, from anti-government Red Shirt protesters.

I was in Bangkok recently to photograph the devastation that the Red Shirts have left behind in Ratchaprasong. Gone are Siam Theatre (an institution in Bangkok) and CentralWorld, South East Asia’s second largest shopping mall. Coincidentally, CentralWorld used to be called World Trade Centre before its billion-baht renovation in 2006. Like the World Trade Centre in New York, CentralWorld was also destroyed by “terrorists”.

All seemed calm and normal as I walked along the streets in Ratchaprasong, but I could sense that many Bangkokians remain guarded. My friends in Bangkok confirmed this when they told me that nobody dares talk about politics in public anymore. The taxi drivers (most of whom are Red) would used to curse and swear at Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva and his government during the turmoil, but now they just quietly drive their taxis.

According to CRES (Centre for the Resolution of Emergency Situation), there are about 90 dead and 1500 injured in the recent clashes. The Red Shirts are pointing their fingers at the government for causing the deaths, but the government blames it on the “men in black” militia. So who’s right and who’s wrong? One thing’s for sure – this is not a straightforward poor vs. elite class war as misleadingly reported by CNN and BBC, it’s much more complicated and one has to dig deep into Thailand’s culture and history to understand what’s really going on. From what I’ve read and heard, one man is unquestionably fomenting the Red Shirt movement and he doesn’t seem to be letting up…

With Thailand’s worst political crisis in modern history over (or is it?), is it safe to travel to the Land of Smiles? The answer is a resounding yes!

Baan Pra Nond… Home Sweet Home

If you’re tired of soulless big chain hotels, maybe an intimate B&B is more your cup of tea?

Nestled among skyscrapers in busy Sathorn, lies the very charming Baan Pra Nond. Originally the residence of a Supreme Court judge, the 70 year old Thai Colonial house is lovingly brought back to life by Tasma and Jason Cotsmire. The B&B with its yellow and green walls, is tastefully decorated with original teak wood furniture and sepia-tinted family photos. Even the switches in the main building are old school.

I stayed at Baan Pra Nond (BPN) for the second time when I spent the Chinese New Year in Bangkok recently. Like the first time, I enjoyed every moment there especially chatting with the affable owners Tasma and Jason. While there are no concierge and turndown service, BPN offers a homey ambience and personalized service that you can’t find at tourist or business hotels.

Thanks to its very central location (five minutes’ walk to Surasak BTS), Baan Pra Nond is a welcome retreat for weary travelers who want to get away from the maddening crowd, but still want to be near to all the action. I’m sure Khun Tasma’s grandfather would be really proud of what his granddaughter has done to his place – home sweet home in the Kingdom’s frenetic metropolis.

The Bhuthorn… Sweet Dreams Are Made of These

At The Bhuthorn, B&B means Beautiful & Brilliant.

I knew I would love The Bhuthorn the moment I stepped into the century old shophouse. But I didn’t know I would fall head over heels for it! Restored to its former glory by Khun Direk and Khun Chitlada, architects turned hotelier, The Bhuthorn is a labor of love. From the vintage furniture and objet d'art to the fresh flowers (Direk arranges them himself) and quality toiletries (Chitlada handpicked the best Jasmine scented products which another legendary Bangkok hotel also uses), one can see that the owners put all their heart and soul into everything. The attention to detail and personalized service straight from the heart impeccable! In fact, the Bhuthorn feels more like a cozy and chic abode with all the creature comforts than your run of the mill B&B.

With only three rooms (each individually decorated and named after three Thai princes), a stay at The Bhuthorn is an unforgettable experience – you’re transported back to a bygone era. The B&B’s setting in a quaint heritage-listed part of old Bangkok is akin to a movie set. In the evening as I looked out the window into the moonlit square below, I could just picture a Thai Romeo and Juliet whispering sweet nothings to each other as they stroll along the quiet row of shophouses. It was like a beautiful dream which I wished would never end…

The next morning I awoke to a scrumptious traditional Thai breakfast (Chitlada makes a mean caffè latte by the way), followed by a yummy coconut ice cream from Nátthàphawn (the famous ice cream stall happens to be The Bhuthorn’s next door neighbor!) in the lovely and leafy courtyard. All too soon it was time to check out.

I knew I was going to miss The Bhuthorn when I stepped into the taxi and waved goodbye to Khun Chitlada. But what I didn’t know and only know now is that I miss it so badly to want to fly back to Bangkok and relive The Bhuthorn magic again and again. Khun Direk and Khun Chitlada have created a truly special place, one which every discerning traveler or architecture enthusiast who appreciates excellent design and heartfelt hospitality should not miss.