Ghosts

No visit to Phnom Penh is complete without a visit to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. And for the uninitiated, a word of caution: Tuol Sleng is certainly no Disneyland. The museum (Former Khmer Rouge S-21 Prison) is made up of four nondescript school buildings. Each building was the actual site of unimaginable atrocities. The original tools/apparatus used by the Khmer Rouge regime to torture the prisoners are on display. So are the interrogation rooms and cells that housed these poor souls – their restless spirits still linger the desolate grounds… you could just feel their presence!

I planned to spend an hour at the museum, but ended up more than two hours there. And mind you, I am not a fan of gory movies or ghost stories. I am actually very faint hearted. The torture rooms and cells reeked of death, so I didn’t spend too much time in there. But at the gallery where thousands and thousands of mug shots of actual prisoners were on display, I couldn’t help but look at each and every one of them. While many looked afraid (and resigned to their fate), there were also many who smiled for the camera – obviously they were too innocent to know what was in store for them… and there were many children! My heart sank. How could they do such a thing? By taking away the children’s right to live as children! Their childhood robbed in broad daylight and their lives drowned in the mass graves at Choeung Ek.

For a tourist attraction, Tuol Sleng is unusually dead (pun unintended) silent. Visitors, even the noisy tourist-bus types, looked at the displays silently, almost all with a heavy heart and a perturbed look. Indeed, it’s hard to be unaffected by the sheer horror of the events that took place there. It’s that horrific!

As I left the museum, a middle-aged amputee approached me at the gate and asked for money. While I empathized with his predicament, I feel that one should not exploit the situation to gain something. And one should not exploit the many innocent children who need a roof over their heads, good education, healthcare and proper nutrition by promising them money in exchange for sex or slavery.

The ghosts of Tuol Sleng still haunt many in Cambodia today. And the legacy of Khmer Rouge continues to live on. While we can never erase the past, we can build a better and brighter future for Cambodian children… Do you care enough to help make this possible?

Boeung Tonle Sap

Tonle Sap Lake is said to be the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia. If seeing is believing, here’s a picture of the enormous lake. Looks more like an ocean, huh?

Chong Khneas

These photos were taken at Chong Khneas, another floating village on Tonle Sap Lake. This village is a tad touristy for my liking. And the waters here are not as clear as Prek Toal’s. But it does have its magical moments at sunrise.

Madam Genteel

This is the lady who invited me to her home for the scrumptious lunch. She is so gentle and placid like the lake she resides on. I will never forget her hospitality. And she will always remain as one of my favourite portraits that I've taken.

Prek Toal

Here are photos of Prek Toal, a floating village in Tonle Sap Lake. The village is amazing, very tranquil and rustic – something that I don’t get to see in my “concrete jungle” country. One picture shows my lunch at a home there. Looks scrumptious, huh?

Hope Floats

I travelled to Siem Reap for the third time last December. I did not visit any of its world famous temples (now’s a bad time to visit the temples as they are under repair with many sections closed off to the public until 2010), instead I went on a day trip to the great lake known as Boeung Tonle Sap.

The largest freshwater lake in South East Asia, Tonle Sap supports an extraordinarily rich and diverse eco-system with more than 100 varieties of waterbirds, over 200 species of fish, and other wildlife that inhabit the inundated mangrove forests. An important commercial resource, the Lake also provides more than half of the fish consumed in Cambodia and is home to many ethnic Vietnamese and Cham communities, living in floating villages around the lake. I had the opportunity to visit one of these floating villages at Prek Toal which I will share my experience in pictures over the next few days.

Lonely Planet Cambodia

No, you’re not looking at the new cover for Lonely Planet Cambodia. It’s just something I did for fun. But seriously, if I could I would love to do it for real. I’ve told a few friends that it’s my dream to do a cover for Lonely Planet travel books. Maybe my wish will come true someday?

Happy Go Lucky?

A trip to Cambodia last October was a life changing experience for me. It was my first time in Phnom Penh and never in my life had I encountered so many destitute children begging in the streets. “Please mister, give me money, please!” they would plead with sad puppy dog eyes. While I really wanted to help them, I knew that if I gave them money, it would encourage them to beg even more. And who knows where their hard begged money went?

Prompted by what I saw, I started a project littlematchkids.org to raise awareness about their plight, but sadly that didn’t take off. Despite numerous emails to friends about the project, the response was pathetic – as bad as the plight of the Cambodian street kids. Maybe I’m not trying hard enough? While I am discouraged by the underwhelming response, I have not given up my hopes and dreams for these children. Ironically, the kids may be poor and live in slums, but their smiles are aplenty (but for how long?) as this picture shows.

Knai Bang Chatt – 10 Reasons Why You’d Love It

Knai Bang Chatt is undeniably the best place to stay in Kep, Cambodia. If winning a spot on the prestigious Conde Nast Traveler Hot List 2007 is not enough to entice you, these 10 reasons would:

Reason # 1 – Uniquely Different

If you’re tired of cookie cutter chain hotels, then Knai Bang Chatt would be your cup of tea. So chic it hurts and so different it’s refreshing, the 11-room Knai Bang Chatt is more a home than a hotel. Even its name which means the rainbow aureole encircling the sun is unique and very apt (see my photo for the proof)!

Reason # 2 – Funky Architecture

Knai Bang Chatt has three original New Khmer Architecture style bungalows, designed and built in the 1960’s by a student of Vann Molyvann, Cambodia’s most celebrated architect and national icon. Mr Molyvann himself studied under another legendary architect, Le Corbusier.

Reason # 3 – Sexy Rooms

Minimalist with antique furniture and objets d'art from the owners’ private collection, each of the 11 rooms are different. The open plan bathrooms most with shutter windows can be opened to views of the garden/beach and in full view of fellow guests. Definitely not for the prudish.

Reason #4 – Garden Oasis

Its gorgeously manicured gardens with lily ponds, tropical fruit trees and towering palms make this a perfect respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. And it has ample breathing space to just laze around or meditate – perfect for yoga.

Reason #5 – Stunning Sunsets

A private beach outfitted with a pretty pavilion, oversized loungers and hammocks, you can savor the beautiful sunset over the Gulf of Thailand in both style and comfort.

Reason #6 – Fantastic Food

While Knai Bang Chatt is about 10 minutes walk from seafood restaurants, its home-style cuisine is so delicious that you’d want to eat in and not go anywhere else. And what makes the food here even more delectable is that it uses organically grown produce and no MSG. You can even make yourself at home in the kitchen where the gregarious head chef is happy to share with you her fish amok recipe.

Reason #7 – Water Sports Galore

From a fully equipped beach club to an infinity-edge salt water pool, water sports enthusiasts can rejoice! Late October to May is the best time to go for sun-kissed beaches and blue skies.

Reason #8 – Excellent Service

Some say the service is laid back or not as polished as 6-star establishments, but to a seasoned traveler (yours truly) who has stayed in some of the best hotels in Asia, Knai Bang Chatt’s service is just right. No pretentiousness and fawning over guests to the point of irritation, what you get instead is unassuming, and warm and friendly service. In fact, Stephane Arrii, the General Manager, is the most convivial Frenchman you’d ever meet.

Reason # 9 – Has a Heart

Knai Bang Chatt donates a part of its revenue to development programs for local villages. One of which, the Hand in Hand Cambodia program is the brainchild of owners, Jef Moons and Boris Vervoordt.

Reason #10 – Photogenic Property

Last but not least, mixed all the above together and you get a beauteous hotel right out of the pages of design or fashion magazines. It’s every hotel aficionado and photographer’s wet dream come true.

Haunted Hill Station

I don’t know which is scarier? Bokor Hill Station or the ride up there and back?

Established by the French as a hill-station with a casino and hotel in the 1920s, Bokor Hill Station was abandoned twice, during World War II and the Khmer Rouge period. And it was during the latter that the entire Bokor region saw fierce fighting between the Vietnamese and Khmer Rouge. The battle scars are still there – bullet holes that dot the walls of the Catholic church and casino. Walking along the cold and crumbling halls of these buildings (think The Shining) is guaranteed to give even the bravest among us the goose bumps.

Besides its grim past, Bokor Hill has one of the worst roads, accessible only by 4WDs and motorcycles, and virtually inaccessible during the wet season. Throwing caution to the wind, Mei and I decided to endure the bumpy three-hour drive to Bokor Hill from Kep. And bumpy is an understatement. Turned out that our vehicle, a five-passenger pickup truck had poor suspension. Whenever the vehicle hit a bump (which was like every two minutes), it would jolt Mei and I from our seats with a violent thump. We ended up with very sore bums and a bad back. “There goes my hours of yoga practice,” Mei moaned. And as if that wasn’t bad enough, we realized to our shock and horror that the vehicle’s speedometer was broken! We didn’t know whether to laugh, cry or scream. Thankfully God answered my prayers and we made it back to Kep in one piece.

Would we do it again? NO WAY! But to be fair, Bokor Hill Station is quite an interesting place to visit. And if I did not make the dangerous and uncomfortable journey up there, I would not have taken these photos.

N.B. Bokor Hill Station is now off limits to tourists. A conglomerate, Sokimex Group, is currently redeveloping the site – repairing the roads and the old buildings, and building new ones (hotels, restaurants, golf clubs etc). So it’s a good thing Mei and I got to see the original Bokor Hill Station before it’s turned into another soul-less integrated resort.

Best Kep Secret

When you mention Cambodia, the one thing most people will think of is Angkor Wat or Angelina Jolie and the Tomb Raider (part of the movie was shot at Ta Prohm). But Cambodia has so much more to offer – idyll beaches, the fascinating Tonle Sap Lake, fish amok, New Khmer Architecture and the list goes on. One notable and undiscovered gem is Kep.

A sleepy beachside town, Kep is three hours drive from Phnom Penh and 30 minutes from the Cambodia/Vietnam border at Prek Chak/Xa Xia. Kep used to be a favourite haunt of the French and Cambodian elite in its heydays from the early 1900’s until the 1960’s, but it has fallen on hard times in recent years, particularly during the Khmer Rouge reign.

Fortunately, Kep is experiencing a resurgence with several mid-range and hip boutique hotels recently open or being built. Ok, so the beach isn’t that great (you see rocks instead of white sand), but the town's seafood is fabulous and cheap – a haven for crab lovers.

I shot this picture just before dusk. The Gulf of Thailand shimmered like jewels, beckoning nightfall as the fishermen made their way home after a good day’s catch. For me, as I reclined on my hammock with a tall glass of freshly squeezed orange and watermelon juice, it was the perfect way to end a perfect day…

Angkor What?

Can you guess where this picture was taken? No, it’s not the zoo or Singapore Turf Club. The correct answer is Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Angkor Wat is one of the most photographed tourist-infested attractions in the world. And many photographers have taken countless pictures of it at every conceivable angle that Angkor Wat has somehow lost its magic and its images commonplace – “seen that, done that, shot that”. So I think this picture of a horse grazing in the temple grounds is a refreshing change.

Khmer Waitress

If you are an art and coffee lover, you can enjoy the best of both worlds at Java Cafe and Gallery, Phnom Penh. The hip café is housed in a colonial building overlooking Sihanouk Boulevard. I ‘happened’ to take this picture while having lunch there earlier this year. I saw a pretty waitress taking orders from a Japanese family (yes, the café attracts a cosmopolitan crowd). I think her silhouette against the window is placidly beautiful, don’t you agree?

Chamcar Bei – A Visit that Warms the Heart

Since we’re on the subject of goodwill, I thought I’d share some photos (my personal favorites) I took of a school in a rural village near Kep, Cambodia. The school, part of the Hand in Hand Cambodia program, is co-funded by NGOs, Friends of the Rainbow Schools and Bridges Across Borders.

I visited the school with Joan and Mei in January this year. The lovely ladies brought many presents consisting of clothes, stationery, flutes and cash donations from Singapore to give to the needy children and their families. It always warms my heart to see such kindness and compassion. And seeing the kids’ happy faces (and their simple lives) reminds me to count my blessings and be thankful for what I have.

I believe that regardless of race, language and religion, we should help one another to make this world a better place for all. Everyone deserves a chance in life.

P.S. The Hand in Hand Cambodia program is the brainchild of Jef Moons and Boris Vervoordt, the Belgian founders of Knai Bang Chatt, a chic resort in Kep.