Amanfayun – The Bumpy Path to Luxury

Amanfayun in Hangzhou is Amanresorts’ newest baby. Since its opening in December 2009, it has received mixed reviews.

First the bouquets. Surrounded by lush greenery, creeks and mountains, Amanfayun is breathtaking. And it looks nothing like your typical resort or hotel. The rooms are housed in separate buildings (century-old farm houses), many with their own courtyard. The original structures are left intact, only the interiors are refurbished with mod cons. The sprawling property is like a beautiful set in a Zhang Yimou’s period movie. Spring is the best time to go when the flowers are in full bloom, adding splashes of color to the already picturesque landscape. In the day, you can hear birds singing their happy song. When night falls, it is so quiet you can hear a pin drop.

Now the brickbats. Because it is located in a public park, Fayun Pathway, its grounds are open to non-guests which mean tourists can walk about freely outside your room. Hate to say this, but it feels like a theme park. This has irked many paying guests, especially Amanjunkies who have come to expect total exclusivity and privacy from Amanresorts. I was lucky that my room is situated far away from the main pathway so I was spared from gawking tourists.

Amanfayun’s service compared to other Aman properties is not quite up to par. The security guards manning the public areas can be brusque at times, while the restaurant service can be slow and the food unexciting (and terribly expensive). I understand that teething problems are the norm for any new hotels, so I just closed one eye and happily took these pictures.

Bare to Basics

If you’re looking for a different holiday experience, where there’s adventure for adrenalin junkies and quiet time for introverts, Naked Retreats is it.

The eco-conscious and animal friendly retreat is located in 395 Village, Moganshan. Set amid unspoiled bamboo forest and alongside running streams are double-storey bungalows for family and friends and self-contained studios (two were converted from pig sty) for honeymooners or single travelers. While there are no concierge or butler services, ayis are on hand to tidy your room and cook delicious (and very large portion) meals.

The rooms are fairly basic, but cozy and comfortable. To be honest, I thought the retreat is a little rough around the edges (grubby shower curtains and dusty corners), but its stunning and serene surroundings more than make up for it.

A Misty Morning in Moganshan Part 3

By popular demand, here are more Moganshan pics. The last picture was taken at 395 Village where I stayed for the night. The bare and basic retreat, aptly named Naked, is really wonderful – comfortable accommodation, delicious food and friendly people (and pets). Watch out for my review and pics which will be posted here soon!

A Misty Morning in Moganshan Part 2

I took these pictures at 5.30am. The day before was rainy and gloomy. So I was very glad when the sun (finally) rose and shone its glorious rays!

Fresh from a good night’s slumber, I lugged my camera bag and climbed up the mountain (through a bamboo forest, nice but had to watch out for venomous bamboo snakes) to the town centre which was strangely deserted except for a stray dog roaming the streets. “Great! I have the whole town to myself,” I said to myself as I happily snapped away.

I am really pleased with these pictures. As they say, the early bird catches the worm or in my case the best light!

A Misty Morning in Moganshan Part 1

“The skies of Italy, the verdure of Japan, the grandeur of the Rockies” this quote from North China Daily News, 1936, which waxed lyrical about Moganshan is certainly true!

While not many foreigners know about Moganshan, it is very popular with the locals (mostly Shanghai urbanites) who come here to escape from the heat in the summer. The mountain is covered in snow in winter, but still a wonderful time to spend the holidays. Located in Zhejiang province and three hours drive from Shanghai, Moganshan boasts many European-style villas, some left dilapidated, while some have been restored and turned into guesthouses.

Legend has it that a swordsmith, Gan Jiang, came to the mountain in 722-481 BC to forge and temper a pair of special swords in a stream that runs from one of the many clear mountain springs. Gan’s wife was called Mo Ye. Hence, the name Moganshan. Today that same stream from which the sword was made is Moganshan’s main tourist attraction, the Sword Pond.

Blessed with verdant bamboo forests and misty mountain vistas, Moganshan is a great place for hikers and a sanctuary for weary souls.

Magnolia Bed & Breakfast… A Lovely Blossom in the French Concession

If you want to be in the heart of The French Concession, the place to stay is Magnolia Bed & Breakfast. Tucked away in a quiet little street just off busy HuaiHai Lu, the green-colored terrace house is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle. The nondescript exterior may not look appealing, but once you step inside it’s all chic and arty in an unpretentious way.

I stayed there for two nights in April and was given the only available (and the biggest) room in the house, Ink Water Suite, due to a last minute extension by one of the guests… who’s complaining? The generous suite has a balcony with great views, an open concept bathroom and a walk-in closet albeit tiny! It is also the only room with a LCD TV. The other four rooms on the lower floors have a queen-sized bed each, and although on the smallish side are quite adequate and comfy for single travelers.

Breakfast, a choice of Western or Chinese, is served in the living room on the ground floor. It is also here that you can surf the Internet or help yourself to a cup of coffee from the complimentary Nespresso machine. Or you can just chill in the adjoining library cum lounge with a good book. Or better yet, brush up on your Mandarin and have a chat with the friendly ayi over a bowl of steaming soya milk.

Magnolia is the brainchild of Miranda Yao and Norris Chen. The dynamic wife and husband duo also runs the renowned cooking studio, The Kitchen At. I checked it out one afternoon – it’s very impressive I must say. The students I met there could not stop raving about its cooking classes. Wait till they stay at Magnolia… they will definitely love it a whole bunch like I did!

I Love Shanghai Part 2

One of the most picturesque streets in the French Concession is Fuxing Xilu (see last pic). The district not only boasts a graceful ambience, it also has a colorful history. It was once home to revolutionaries (Song Qingling, Sun Yatsen and Zhou Enlai lived here), triads, whores and writers. Many years on, the French Concession still remains the most happening place in Shanghai with its lion’s share of trendy restaurants, pubs, boutiques, art galleries and publishing houses. Bohemians will feel right at home here.

While the French Concession is quaint, the Bund is more spectacular and showy with its grandiose buildings. The Broadway Mansions (third last pic) at the northern end of the Bund, used to house the Foreign Correspondents’ Club in the 1930s and was one of Shanghai’s tallest buildings in its heyday.

I Love Shanghai Part 1

This was my second visit to Shanghai. My first was in 2005. It’s only been five years, but I was amazed how the metropolis has transformed or rather outdone itself! While the futuristic skyscrapers are impressive, I was more awe-struck by the historic architecture of the Bund and French Concession which gives Shanghai an old-world European vibe.

The French Concession with its Tudor mansions and Art Deco apartments, is undoubtedly my most favorite district in Shanghai. Pedestrian-friendly and aesthetically pleasing, I enjoyed taking leisurely walks along the tree-lined avenues. Early evenings and mornings are the best time to explore its nooks and crannies. On Julu Lu, Fumin Lu and Changle Lu, you’ll find Shanghai’s hippest restaurants (they’re always full so reservation is a must) and specialty shops. The townhouses on Julu Xilu are especially lovely… how I wish could live in one of them!

Nicknamed the Pearl of the Orient and Paris of the East, Shanghai is a city of contrasts where east meets west and old versus new (the Bund literally faces off with ultra-modern Pudong) which I’ve tried to depict in my photos. In my book, Shanghai is one of the most exciting cities in the world and you can’t help but fall in love with it!